On this day December 8 in 1886 Diego Rivera was born in Mexico.
|Diego Rivera: Detroit|
|The Road to Bas-Breau, Fontainebleau by Claude Monet, ca 1865|
|yellow Daffodils and blue Chionodoxa|
|Violets rule at Nestle Inn Bed & Breakfast|
Regarding Veils.-A veil is miraculously charming. Fine tulle does not remind one of the origin of veils nor for what they were at first intended. In principle the veil was a defense for modesty; in Turkey a woman's veil is a piece of stuff with openings at the eyes.
In Europe, on the contrary, it is a piquant embellishment, which hides the imperfections and make beauty appear to greater advantage. A white tulle with black dots is the most becoming veil; it gives freshness to the complexion and brilliancy to the eyes. An entirely white veil is becoming to a brunette with a pale complexion. Never wear red, violet nor blue veils. They make atrocious reflections upon the most beautiful complexion.
Fans.-In the hands of an intelligent, clever woman there is nothing more adorning or attractive than a fan. It can be used to such advantage in imparting light and shade to the features that more than one heart has been conquered by these tiny, fluttering fans. It is, therefore, important to observe great care in selecting a fan with either neutral or appropriate colors, because being brought so near the face in use, it can either increase or diminish the beauty of the complexion.
Gloves and Parasols.-The same regard should be given to the selection of these articles.
Colors That Show Well at Night.-The colors that gain in brilliancy under gas or electric light include Light Browns, Crimsons, Scarlets, Orange and Light Greens. Those which lose their brilliancy are shades of Purple, Lilac, Dark blues and Dark Greens. Purple and orange harmonize by daylight, but make a wretched combination under gas or electric light. It is well to remember this in selecting colors for morning or evening wear.
The Effect of Colors Upon Others.-It is strange that colors should have a decided influence upon the beholder, yet such is the fact. Some colors produce a soothing effect upon the mind; some a cold, harsh sensation, and others an exhilarating feeling or joyousness. The following describes the influence produced by the principal four of the primary colors:
Green is the color of spring time. It is suggestive of youthfulness, happiness, prosperity, and bright hope and affection. Green has a grateful, calming, cooling and refreshing effect upon the mind and the nerves. It is the most restful color for the eyes.
Blue is cold and receding. It is both tranquilizing and attractive. Owing to its cold effect, it is suggestive of the cool, blue vault of heaven, and of winter; which attributes make it a most desirable and pleasing color for a summer dress.
Yellow is essentially a bright color; it is closely allied to the color of the heavenly planets, and approaches light. It is the most brilliant of all colors, and serves to modify all other colors. The effect of yellow upon the mind is much the same as that of light. It produces gayety and gladness. It should be used with discretion in apparel; not too much, and preference being given to the darker shades, such as old gold, maize, and other modifications. It produces a fine harmony when used as a trimming on brown and the autumn-leaf shades.
Red is the most powerful, the warmest, and the most conspicuous of all colors. On this account red is contained in almost every nation's flag, as a signal; it is also used in many uniforms. Red is the most suitable color for winter, and may be used as a waist, coat, scarf or hood with most pleasing effect. Used in trimming a garment, or even a skirt, or entire dress of this color, the result is bright, warm and gay.
Conclusion.-The hints and information contained in the foregoing pages will prove of the greatest value to the youthful maiden, no less than to her older sisters. It may be given by a mother to her daughter with the assurance that it will guide her to beauty and the art of dressing becomingly.
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About the White Tension Indicator as well as the many other improvements which are exclusively White. Our machine excels in the character and number of its labor saving devices - that means more and better sewing for less labor. Vibrator and Rotary Shuttle styles.
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|Self-portrait of Elisabeth Vigee-Lebrun|
|Lady Folding a Letter|
|The Bather, ca 1792|
|Theodore Rousseau (1812-1867)|
|Gateway, ca 1855|
|Village Under the Trees|
By observing the rule of harmony in the following list, colors in both dress goods and trimmings can be safely selected. In ordering by mail, or purchasing for others, they will prove most useful.
The Colors That Harmonize Blue and gold.
Blue and orange.
Blue and salmon-color.
Black and white.
Black and orange.
Black and maize.
Black and scarlet.
Black and lilac.
Black and pink.
Black and slate-color.
Black and drab or buff.
Black, yellow (or white), and crimson.
Black, orange, blue, and scarlet.
Blue and drab.
Blue and stone-color.
Blue and white (or gray).
Blue and straw-color.
Blue and maize.
Blue and chestnut (or chocolate).
Blue and brown.
Blue and black.
Blue, scarlet, and purple (or lilac).
Blue, orange, and black.
Blue, orange, and green.
Blue, brown, crimson, and gold (or yellow).
Blue, orange, black, and white.
Crimson and gold.
Crimson and orange.
Crimson and maize.
Crimson and purple.
Crimson and drab.
Green and gold.
Green and yellow.
Green and orange.
Green and scarlet.
Green, scarlet, and blue.
Green, crimson, blue, and gold.
Lilac and gold.
Lilac and maize.
Lilac and cherry.
Lilac and scarlet.
Lilac and crimson.
Lilac, scarlet, and black (or white).
Lilac, gold color, and crimson.
Lilac, yellow (or gold), scarlet, and white.
Orange and chestnut.
Orange and brown.
Orange, lilac, and crimson.
Orange, red, and green.
Orange, blue, and crimson.
Orange, purple, and scarlet.
Orange, blue, scarlet, and purple.
Orange, blue, scarlet, and claret.
Orange, blue, scarlet, white, and green.
Purple and gold.
Purple and orange.
Purple and maize.
Purple and blue.
Purple, scarlet, and gold-color.
Purple, scarlet, and white.
Purple, scarlet, blue, and orange.
Purple, scarlet, blue, yellow, and black.
Red and gold (or gold color).
Red and white (or gray).
Red, orange, and green.
Red, yellow, and black.
Red, gold-color, black, and white.
Scarlet and purple.
Scarlet and blue.
Scarlet and orange.
Scarlet and slate-color.
Scarlet, black and white.
Scarlet, blue, and white.
Scarlet, blue, and gray.
Scarlet, blue, and yellow.
Scarlet, blue, black, and yellow.
White and scarlet.
White and crimson.
White and cherry.
White and pink.
White and brown.
Yellow and purple.
Yellow and blue.
Yellow and violet.
Yellow and brown.
Yellow and red.
Yellow and black.
Yellow and chestnut (or chocolate).
Yellow, purple, and crimson.
Yellow, purple, scarlet, and blue.
|Arthur Lowe (1865-1940)|
|The Elbow by Arthur Lowe|
|Clifton Grove by Arthur Lowe|
How to Dress.-The most attractive dress worn by a woman is the one that in color harmonizes with her complexion. The material of a dress, and even the matter of fitting well, are unimportant when compared with the color of the trimmings and other articles worn.
There are four complexions: Blonde, Demi-Blonde, Pale Brunette and Decided Brunette.
The Blonde, with a white, delicate skin; eyes either gray or light blue, and hair ranging in hue from auburn to light yellow, or golden. For this complexion green is the most complementary color, because it imparts a delicate, rosy tint to the cheeks. The most delicate shades of green form a most beautifying contrast to the face and hair, particularly if the latter inclines to deep golden or orange. A green bonnet trimmed with a little rose-color and white flowers, or a white feather, is quite becoming. The following colors are all best suited to the blonde: Green, in varying shades; light blue; mauve; white; black; gray; fawn; slate; and in trimming a dress or bonnet, red, yellow, rose-color or pink may be used, but not too near the face or hair.
The Demi-Blonde has dark blue, hazel or brown eyes; her complexion is fair, but the cheeks are nearly always rosy, or in times of merriment or exercise decidedly carnation; her hair is brown. The demi-blonde may wear all the colors suited to the blonde, except that dark green may be worn as well as light green. Sage, tea and olive greens are very becoming. The rule is: The deeper the ruddiness of the complexion, the more delicate the shade of color.
The Pale Brunette has a pale skin, often with a delicate amber tint; the hair from dark brown to nearly black; the eyes from dark brown to almost brown-black.
The strong contrast between the hair and eyes, and the complexion of the skin, shows that decided colors, either light of dark, are better suited to the pale brunette than the neutral or lighter tints. Black, white, claret, russet, gold-colors, brown and crimson are the best colors; but others may be used to trim either bonnet or dress, when employed with a regard to harmony.
The Decided Brunette, whose rich-hued, warm-tinted skin, her coral lips, black hair and eyes, make her the most dazzlingly beautiful type of womanhood, may wear with fine effect: Scarlet, yellow, gold-color, maize, orange, bright crimson, dark red, black and white; the latter should be, if a dress, trimmed with yellow, scarlet or orange.
|John William Waterhouse|
Photo by H.S. Mendelssohn
|The Soul of the Rose, ca 1908|
|Narcissus, ca 1912|
Woman's Stature.-Taking the height of the Venetian Venus, the stature of the perfect woman is five feet five inches.
Her Weight.-For a woman five feet five inches, 135 pounds is the proper weight, and if she be well formed she can stand another ten pounds without greatly showing it.
Her Proportion.-When her arms are extended she should measure from the tip of middle finger to the tip of middle finger just five feet five inches, exactly her own height. The length of her hand should be just a tenth of that, and her foot just a seventh.
The distance from the elbow to the middle finger should be the same as the distance from the elbow to the middle of the chest.
From the top of the head to the chin should be just the length of the foot, and there should be the same distance between the chin and the armpits.
A woman of this height should measure twenty-four inches about the waist and thirty-four inches about the bust if measured from under the arms and forty-three if over them.
The upper arm should measure thriteen inches and the wrist six.
The calf of the leg should measure fourteen and one-half inches, the thigh twenty-five and the ankle eight inches.
Next week in part nine we learn How to Dress and what colors are best for The Blonde, The Demi-Blonde, The Pale Brunette and The Decided Brunette.To Develop Muscles.-Moderate exercise, such as walking, tennis, croquet, domestic duties, and the like, never to the point of fatigue, will make wonderful improvement in the shape of the arms and limbs. The stout it makes more symmetrical, and the slender is increased in size and shapeliness. Of course sleep and proper food are important helps.
|Carnations and Zinnias by Vincent van Gogh, ca 1886|
Beauty Sleep.-Once in a while you may go to bed late wihout any particular injury; but nothing makes a woman look old and haggard quicker than loss of sleep. The sleep before midnight is "beauty sleep," and nothing is truer. Freshness, beauty and health are sure to abide with those who avoid late hours.
Diet and Medicine.-Those who have had complexions, muddy or rough, of long standing, while observing the advice given elsewhere, and trying the methods suggested, must be careful of their diet, for it has much to do with making the skin fair, clear, and brightening the eyes. Most people try to improve the complexion by treating the surface only, when the treatment should be thorough and constitutional. As individual differences are found in every one, each person must take such internal medicine as is the best suited to her system.
Young Women.-Late hours, irregular habits and want of attention to diet, are common errors with young people, but it is very difficult to make them comprehend this. Frequently they sit up until twelve o'clock and even later without any apparent ill effect; they go without a meal to-day, and to-morrow eat to repletion with only temporary inconvenience; one night they will sleep three or four hours; the next nine or ten; in their eagerness to go to a place of amusement they will eat no food at all; the next evening they will eat a heavy supper and go to bed early and then wonder why they have pimples or a dull, sallow complexion, and when old, wonder why their faces look lined and haggard, when they paid no regard to the plainest precepts of health in early life.
A Woman of Fifty.-At the age of fifty a woman is not too old to improve her complexion and make it white, smooth and free from blemish, if she will but try.
Pale Face.-As friction over the body is good to open the pores, so is gentle friction of the face highly beneficial in producing a color, should it be pale. A diet of beef, mutton and fruit will impart a rosy tint to a pale face. No article of clothing should be worn too tight to allow a free circualtion of the blood. Few persons would have headache when they rise in the morning were it not for the bad air they breathe during the night. Lower your window a few inches from the top, and raise the lower sash a little. A few breaths of fresh air taken outside, before breakfast, when the weather is sutable, is a great banisher of headaches. You will feel fresher and a rosy tint will steal into your cheeks.
The Shoulders.-To lean back too far is not graceful. The shoulders should be thrown back just far enough to avoid stooping; this will not only expand the chest and lungs, but it will cultivate the habit of walking erect, which in both men and women is universally admired; besides, an erect form is conducive to health. Learn to stand well and firm, not first on one foot and then the other; standing thus makes one hip project as though you were deformed.
In walking throw all the weight on the hips and do not allow the head to hang forward from the shoulders, a habit too common with our American girls. A little practice in walking erect will soon develop into a habit that will last until old age. Avoid going upstairs in a bent-over manner as it contracts the chest and produces a slovenly gait. Do not run upstairs; pause, if necessary, to take breath, particularly if you are not strong.
Face Powder.-Some of the loveliest complexions are those of women who have alsways used good face powder. It will not injure the skin, but gives it a cool, soft look, and imparts a decidedly comfortable feeling.
Blonde Powder.-Those with fair skins, blue, gray or hazel eyes, brown hair, golden or light, should always use white powder of the best quality. (See colors to wear, page 11.)
Brunette Powder.-Those with dark or olive complexion, dark, or black eyes, dark brown or black hair, should always use brunette powder. The beautifying effect will be most gratifying. Never use white powder. Beware of liquid or other cosmetics for the skin, as you prize your complexion.
Next week in part seven we cover Beauty Sleep, Diet and Medicine, Young Women, A Woman of Fifty and Pale Face.Wrinkles.-Nothing banishes the signs of coming age like a cheerful disposition Cultivate a pleasant expression. Of course it is hard to laugh when nothing tickles you, but all the same, wrinkles, frown furrows and other lines are slow to visit the face of the woman who makes the best of things. Avoid fretfulness, impatience and faultfinding, they undermine your nervous system. Neither allow taunts nor ill treatment to disturb you. After washing, always wipe the face toward the nose, and from the chin upward. This will prevent crow's feet and wrinkles. Cheerfulness is one of the remedies for avoiding wrinkles.
Soft, slow strains of music flowed over her like water, warmed from the sun, gently lapping over smooth pebbles. Recalling what happened an hour, or even a minute ago was useless; her mind was empty. The stress of the day had gently slipped down her shoulders and arms, and on to the ends of her fingers to slowly drip to a puddle of nothing on the floor. There were no worries; if only she could feel this way for a lifetime...calm.
The Feet.- Never make the mistake of wearing a tight or pinching shoe. A comfortably fitting shoe not only makes the feet sound, healthy and free from corns, but it gives the wearer that confident and graceful carriage which so greatly adds to a woman's charms. Besides, an easy-fitting shoe always makes the foot look smaller.
The Skin.- Remember that a clear, smooth skin, whether blonde or brunette, is always a point of beauty of which any woman may be proud. The complexion is natural, and nature never errs in her work. (Elsewhere in this book most valuable information is given as to what colors in dress goods and trimmings are appropriate to each complexion.) The ruin of many a fair skin has been brought about by the use of some cosmetic which for a time gave a whiteness to the complexion, only to leave it hard, dry and yellow, when the complexion should have been still fair and lovely. Many a young woman has been made to look old because she was duped into using an "enamel," a "bleach" or other skin destroyer, which after a few months' varnishing left the once beautiful skin like dry parchment. Use nothing in the shape of washes or enamels as you value your looks. The skin may be improved and kept white and clear by simple yet effective means. The face requires attention as well as the stomach; it should never be neglected. For an oily skin, bathe the face night and morning with vinegar and water, equal parts.
When the skin need softening take a pint of rose water and one-half ounce benzoin, stir constantly, then put a little in the water used to wash the face; it is very refreshing and softening to the skin.
For removing blackheads from the skin, steam the face over a basin of hot water (taking care not to inhale the steam), which will open the pores and soften them, then press gently out; persevere in this until they are all removed; then get the best cologne water and wash the face daily; this will keep them away. For freckles and tan there is nothing better than lemon juice two parts, Jamaica rum one part, to be mixed and applied gently to the face with a soft sponge several times during the day and before retiring. For moth patch, two ounces of gum benzoin and alcohol each; put into the bottle and cork. Shake every day for a week, then pour off into a half gallon of soft water, and bathe the face several times a day.
The skin needs a tonic as well as the system, and if it shows a tendency to look dull and flabby you may know it needs a tonic. It is not the outer skin that the fault lies with here, as with the hands, but the under skin, which becomes relaxed and the outer skin falls in lines and wrinkles. The best tonic known is one part of Holland gin to two parts of soft water, which should frequently be applied to the face. The rind of a lemon or an orange thrown into the water pitcher at night, besides imparting a delightful fragrance, softens the water and makes a fine skin tonic. Just before retiring is the best time to treat the face. A good complexion is worth all the trouble it takes to preserve it.
The Teeth. - The teeth are noticed the moment one begins to talk or smile. Their value is beyond price, therefore they are to be looked after continuously. Invariably rinse your mouth thoroughly after eating; lukewarm water is the best, but first remove any particles of food that may remain between the teeth with a quill toothpick, all others are dangerous and liable to break or injure the teeth. The teeth should be cleaned with a brush before going to bed and on rising in the morning. Do not use a brush too stiff. White castile soap and precipitated chalk used twice or three times a week will keep the teeth sweet and white as ivory. For swollen or bleeding gums rinse the mouth with a wineglassful of lukewarm water in which is placed 7 drops of tincture of myrrh. To drop a little powdered orris root on your brush imparts a delicious fragrance to the breath. Should a tooth become discolored, or on the first appearance of decay, consult a dentist.
The Hands. - A pretty hand is a mark of beauty; but a clean hand, with well-kept finger nails, always adds to a woman's appearance and, whether her hand be large or small, shows that she is refined. Even if rough and red, the hands may be softened and whitened. First wash them well with a pure toilet soap, then wipe them dry; while the nails are soft trim them carefully, then push back the skin all around to show the shape of the nail. To remove any spots from the nails, rub with moistened pumice stone. If the hands are red and rough they may be made white and soft and kept so with very little care. Rub the hands with spirits of camphor three times a day for one week; this will harden the outer skin or cuticle, which is really the only portion of the skin which suffers from hard usage. The next thing to do is to rub the hands well with camphor ice each night before retiring, and wear a pair of kid gloves about two sizes too large. Whenever you have occasion to use the hands in soap and water, as soon as through take vinegar and water, half and half, and rinse the hands; this counteracts the alkali in the soap, which is the cause of redness and roughness. By treating the hands thus, whenever necessary, you will have white, soft, pretty hands. Never forget that if your hand is in proportion to your size, whether large or small, you are all right; for proportion is the foundation of grace.
Red Hands. - If, after general attention to the hands they are soft, but still red, soak the feet nightly in hot water for two weeks; this will also be a benefit to those who have flushed faces. A diet of beef, mutton and fruits will give a rosy tint to pale cheeks.
It's Not Enough
Time to think...Time to hide...Time to realize things inside.
Time to work...Time to pray...Time if I just want to play.
Time to sing...Time to cry...Time to know the reasons why.
Time to talk...Time to feel...Time to strengthen nerves of steel.
Time for friends...Time to grow...So MANY things I'd like to know.
My times possessed, But time I need...Is this wanting/needing GREED?
- Patricia McDonald
The Eyebrows. - The eyebrows and lashes have always been regarded as important in adding to womanly beauty. If they are lighter than the hair, they may be darkened with green walnut juice, applied with a small camel's hair brush. Be careful not to stain the skin. Never cork or pencil your eyebrows or lashes. By pinching the eyebrows gently once or twice a day a fine line and a delicate arch may be cultivated.
The Ears. - After bathing the ears should be wiped dry gently with a soft towel. No other part of the face is so likely to catch the dust, nor to be seen by those who converse with you. If your ears are very large, or ugly, never comb your hair back tightly from then, but rather conceal them by wearing a few curls, or locks brushed carelessly back. This will produce a most satisfactory effect.
The Lips. - Never rub or bite the lips to make them red; it not only makes them dark and sore, but it makes your face look drawn and distorted while you are biting them. If you bathe your lips occasionally with a little alum dissolved in water, and apply glycerine with a few drops of benzoin, your lips will be kept fresh and red, and without any injury.